Heres the dirty bits.
Step 1: Jack up car and put on jack stands. USE JACK STANDS, DONT BE AN IDJIT
Step 1.5: Remove your exhaust. Trust me, its in the way. I didn't include much info here because every exhaust is different, and mine was already off of the car anyways.
Step 2: Remove wheels. I have this handy electric impact gun from harbor freight. Works great, except that it sheared one of the studs off of my project kics spacer. They're old and the studs are due to be replaced anyways, we'll get to that another day.
Also, your axle nut may be a different size. I run z32 rear uprights and hubs, iirc stock 240 ones are only 27mm nut?
Step 6: Sort out your new shit. New axles are top and bottom, s13 axles are in the middle
Step 7: Bolt dem shits up. I used the German torquing guide, and the appropriate torque value is Gudenteit. It may help if you set the ebrake while tightening these fasteners.
Step 8: Install axles. I used a wire brush to clean up the splines on the outer end of the axles, and then lightly coated the splines with antisieze. Then you're ready to stuff em in place. This proved a bit tricky. Since the adapter flange adds a bit of width to this axle setup, i ran into trouble getting the drivers side axle all the way into place. The splines on the upright slid into place nicely, but the axle was a bit too long to force into place on the diff end. Solution? If you unbolt the ruca and traction arm from your upright, you will now have enough room to get everything into place.
I did not have any issue with the passengers side install. It went together without having to unbolt any additional arms.
When bolting the axles to the adapter spacers, i couldn't fit the head of my ratchet into place without it hitting the axle, so i used an extension. I used an 8", but a 6" or 4" should work fine. Again, setting the ebrake may help you while tightening these fasteners.
Step 9: Finishing up. Now that both axles are in place, and all fasteners are tight on the adapters, you probably think you're done, right???
You've still got more shit to torque.
Using the 36mm socket, you must now torque the axle nut. (setting the ebrake here is a MUST)
I run z32 uprights and hubs, the torque value ive seen listed as 152-203 ft-lb and other places as 159-224 ft/lbs. I went in the middle, with 180 ft/lbs.
Step 10: Go do burnouts and such.
- Impact gun or long breaker bar
- 1/2" drive tq wrench
- 36mm 1/2" drive socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive allen sockets (5mm and 8mm)
- 3/8" drive extension (i used 8", 6" or 4" should work fine)
- 12mm wrenches (you need two)
- 12mm socket 3/8" drive (if you don't have two 12mm wrenches)
- Prybar (12" should be fine, 18" would be ok too)
- Side cutters (dykes or pliers for removing cotter pin)
- Jack stands (2)
- Floor jack
- whatever size socket for your lugnuts
- Antiseize (or loctite blue, do NOT use loctite red)
- Hammer (for removing dust shields from new axles)
- whatever tools you use for removing your exhaust
- kroil or pb blaster (wd40 is ok too)
- metal toothbrush or wire brush for cleaning
- simple green or brakekleen for cleaning