Friday, January 2, 2015

Maverick Motorsports 350z axle adapter install

Ok so today (and yesterday) i got around to installing a new product from Maverick Motorsports. They have recently releases an adapter kit to run 350z or Infiniti G35 axles on your 240sx. Excellent upgrade, i'll let Maverick do the sales pitch.

Heres the dirty bits.

Step 1: Jack up car and put on jack stands. USE JACK STANDS, DONT BE AN IDJIT

Step 1.5: Remove your exhaust. Trust me, its in the way. I didn't include much info here because every exhaust is different, and mine was already off of the car anyways.

Step 2: Remove wheels. I have this handy electric impact gun from harbor freight. Works great, except that it sheared one of the studs off of my project kics spacer. They're old and the studs are due to be replaced anyways, we'll get to that another day.
Step 3: Using dykes or pliers, remove the cotter pin that holds this brass cover thing, over the axle nut.
Step 4: Using a 36mm socket, remove the axle nut. (Again, having an impact gun is very useful here)
Also, your axle nut may be a different size. I run z32 rear uprights and hubs, iirc stock 240 ones are only 27mm nut? 
Step 5: Get under the car and using 12mm wrenches or socket (your preference), remove the hardware holding the axle to the diff stub shafts. then remove axles from car. (Having a small prybar or large flathead screwdriver comes in handy here, to wedge the inner axle flange out of the diff stub shafts.

Step 6: Sort out your new shit. New axles are top and bottom, s13 axles are in the middle
Here is where i ran into the only real problem. I've already discussed it with Maverick and its been resolved from their end, but they send out two sets of hardware with each kit; countersunk allen head screws to bolt the adapter flanges to the diff, and cap socket allen head screws to bolt the new axles to the adapter flanges.
Countersunk ones take a 5mm allen wrench, and the other ones are 8mm. I used allen sockets.
Here is where the problem pops up. The countersunk screws are too short! They're 20mm long, and need to be at least 5-10 mm longer! I went to assemble and found that they barely even fit all the way through, not even enough to put the nut on.
So i took a trip to my local Fastenal store, and picked up these guys. FYI, the ones you want are the M8 1.25 x 30, not the x25. x25 will work, but you don't get full nut engagement, which is no good.
Once again, i've already let Maverick know about this issue, and it should be resolved before any more of their kits get mailed out.
(x25 on top. still not long enough. x30 on bottom. Full nut engagement, PROPER)

Step 7: Bolt dem shits up. I used the German torquing guide, and the appropriate torque value is Gudenteit. It may help if you set the ebrake while tightening these fasteners.
Step 7.5: The new Z/G axles have this thin metal dust shield on them, I didn't know if it would interfere with my uprights, so i chose to delete them. Some quick knocks with a hammer and chisel (aka screwdriver) and they came right off.

Step 8: Install axles. I used a wire brush to clean up the splines on the outer end of the axles, and then lightly coated the splines with antisieze. Then you're ready to stuff em in place. This proved a bit tricky. Since the adapter flange adds a bit of width to this axle setup, i ran into trouble getting the drivers side axle all the way into place. The splines on the upright slid into place nicely, but the axle was a bit too long to force into place on the diff end. Solution? If you unbolt the ruca and traction arm from your upright, you will now have enough room to get everything into place.
A bit hard to tell, but ruca is also unbolted and now i have enough room. I had to lengthen the RUCA on this side to even be able to bolt it back together, so now my camber is off on this side. My car will be going for an alignment before it sees the road again, but it is wise to have your alignment checked any time you've been removing or dicking with arms.

I did not have any issue with the passengers side install. It went together without having to unbolt any additional arms.

When bolting the axles to the adapter spacers, i couldn't fit the head of my ratchet into place without it hitting the axle, so i used an extension. I used an 8", but a 6" or 4" should work fine. Again, setting the ebrake may help you while tightening these fasteners.

Step 9: Finishing up. Now that both axles are in place, and all fasteners are tight on the adapters, you probably think you're done, right???

You've still got more shit to torque.
Using the 36mm socket, you must now torque the axle nut. (setting the ebrake here is a MUST)
I run z32 uprights and hubs, the torque value ive seen listed as 152-203 ft-lb and other places as 159-224 ft/lbs. I went in the middle, with 180 ft/lbs.
Then you can re-install the copper cover thing over the nut, and the cotter pin. Some people insist on new cotter pins every time, I have no problem re-using them as long as theyre in good condition.

Now you can put your wheels back on, don't forget to torque those as well! And then take the car back off the jackstands.

Step 10: Go do burnouts and such.

Tools used:
  • Impact gun or long breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive tq wrench
  • 36mm 1/2" drive socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive allen sockets (5mm and 8mm)
  • 3/8" drive extension (i used 8", 6" or 4" should work fine)
  • 12mm wrenches (you need two)
  • 12mm socket 3/8" drive (if you don't have two 12mm wrenches)
  • Prybar (12" should be fine, 18" would be ok too)
  • Side cutters (dykes or pliers for removing cotter pin)
  • Jack stands (2)
  • Floor jack
  • whatever size socket for your lugnuts
  • Antiseize (or loctite blue, do NOT use loctite red)
  • Hammer (for removing dust shields from new axles)
  • whatever tools you use for removing your exhaust
  • kroil or pb blaster (wd40 is ok too)
  • metal toothbrush or wire brush for cleaning
  • simple green or brakekleen for cleaning