Just an odd double exposure i found from a trip to Chicago roughly two years ago. Anyone recognize the car/driver? Cuz i don't.
Friday, April 3, 2015
Saturday, March 28, 2015
TECH DAY 2015
Tech day...... where there is no "tech" going on. No cars being scrutineered. No inspections. No making sure that the rulebook guidelines aren't being tweaked to give unfair advantage. Nothing of the sort.
But there was a car show, now CALLED tech day.
And there was a really clean zenki s14 with navan aero, and it really caught my eye as i walked the lot.
Photo by Kathy Isa
(Click for full size)
But there was a car show, now CALLED tech day.
And there was a really clean zenki s14 with navan aero, and it really caught my eye as i walked the lot.
Photo by Kathy Isa
(Click for full size)
Tuesday, March 24, 2015
One Shot, One Thrill
B A T T L E C A T
Famous on the internets.
Smelly I.R.L.
Now with aero-delete mod, you can't even buy this in stores.
(Click for full size)
Famous on the internets.
Smelly I.R.L.
Now with aero-delete mod, you can't even buy this in stores.
(Click for full size)
Monday, March 23, 2015
One Shot One Kill
Sometimes i forget that i have a blog, but then i do things like finally sign up for photoshop, and then remember, "hey! i have a blog where i can post photos and such!". Here is one photos and such. Brian Rogers, at Grange, during the well attended Drift Buffet event on 2/1/15
(Click for full size)
(Click for full size)
Friday, January 2, 2015
Maverick Motorsports 350z axle adapter install
Ok so today (and yesterday) i got around to installing a new product from Maverick Motorsports. They have recently releases an adapter kit to run 350z or Infiniti G35 axles on your 240sx. Excellent upgrade, i'll let Maverick do the sales pitch.
http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/collections/drivetrain/products/nissan-s13-s14-axle-adapters
Heres the dirty bits.
Step 1: Jack up car and put on jack stands. USE JACK STANDS, DONT BE AN IDJIT
Step 1.5: Remove your exhaust. Trust me, its in the way. I didn't include much info here because every exhaust is different, and mine was already off of the car anyways.
Step 2: Remove wheels. I have this handy electric impact gun from harbor freight. Works great, except that it sheared one of the studs off of my project kics spacer. They're old and the studs are due to be replaced anyways, we'll get to that another day.
Step 3: Using dykes or pliers, remove the cotter pin that holds this brass cover thing, over the axle nut.
Step 4: Using a 36mm socket, remove the axle nut. (Again, having an impact gun is very useful here)
Also, your axle nut may be a different size. I run z32 rear uprights and hubs, iirc stock 240 ones are only 27mm nut?
Step 5: Get under the car and using 12mm wrenches or socket (your preference), remove the hardware holding the axle to the diff stub shafts. then remove axles from car. (Having a small prybar or large flathead screwdriver comes in handy here, to wedge the inner axle flange out of the diff stub shafts.
Step 6: Sort out your new shit. New axles are top and bottom, s13 axles are in the middle
Here is where i ran into the only real problem. I've already discussed it with Maverick and its been resolved from their end, but they send out two sets of hardware with each kit; countersunk allen head screws to bolt the adapter flanges to the diff, and cap socket allen head screws to bolt the new axles to the adapter flanges.
Countersunk ones take a 5mm allen wrench, and the other ones are 8mm. I used allen sockets.
Here is where the problem pops up. The countersunk screws are too short! They're 20mm long, and need to be at least 5-10 mm longer! I went to assemble and found that they barely even fit all the way through, not even enough to put the nut on.
So i took a trip to my local Fastenal store, and picked up these guys. FYI, the ones you want are the M8 1.25 x 30, not the x25. x25 will work, but you don't get full nut engagement, which is no good.
Once again, i've already let Maverick know about this issue, and it should be resolved before any more of their kits get mailed out.
(x25 on top. still not long enough. x30 on bottom. Full nut engagement, PROPER)
Step 7: Bolt dem shits up. I used the German torquing guide, and the appropriate torque value is Gudenteit. It may help if you set the ebrake while tightening these fasteners.
Step 7.5: The new Z/G axles have this thin metal dust shield on them, I didn't know if it would interfere with my uprights, so i chose to delete them. Some quick knocks with a hammer and chisel (aka screwdriver) and they came right off.
Step 8: Install axles. I used a wire brush to clean up the splines on the outer end of the axles, and then lightly coated the splines with antisieze. Then you're ready to stuff em in place. This proved a bit tricky. Since the adapter flange adds a bit of width to this axle setup, i ran into trouble getting the drivers side axle all the way into place. The splines on the upright slid into place nicely, but the axle was a bit too long to force into place on the diff end. Solution? If you unbolt the ruca and traction arm from your upright, you will now have enough room to get everything into place.
A bit hard to tell, but ruca is also unbolted and now i have enough room. I had to lengthen the RUCA on this side to even be able to bolt it back together, so now my camber is off on this side. My car will be going for an alignment before it sees the road again, but it is wise to have your alignment checked any time you've been removing or dicking with arms.
I did not have any issue with the passengers side install. It went together without having to unbolt any additional arms.
When bolting the axles to the adapter spacers, i couldn't fit the head of my ratchet into place without it hitting the axle, so i used an extension. I used an 8", but a 6" or 4" should work fine. Again, setting the ebrake may help you while tightening these fasteners.
Step 9: Finishing up. Now that both axles are in place, and all fasteners are tight on the adapters, you probably think you're done, right???
WRONG.
You've still got more shit to torque.
Using the 36mm socket, you must now torque the axle nut. (setting the ebrake here is a MUST)
I run z32 uprights and hubs, the torque value ive seen listed as 152-203 ft-lb and other places as 159-224 ft/lbs. I went in the middle, with 180 ft/lbs.
Then you can re-install the copper cover thing over the nut, and the cotter pin. Some people insist on new cotter pins every time, I have no problem re-using them as long as theyre in good condition.
Now you can put your wheels back on, don't forget to torque those as well! And then take the car back off the jackstands.
Step 10: Go do burnouts and such.
Tools used:
http://www.maverick-motorsports.com/collections/drivetrain/products/nissan-s13-s14-axle-adapters
Heres the dirty bits.
Step 1: Jack up car and put on jack stands. USE JACK STANDS, DONT BE AN IDJIT
Step 1.5: Remove your exhaust. Trust me, its in the way. I didn't include much info here because every exhaust is different, and mine was already off of the car anyways.
Step 2: Remove wheels. I have this handy electric impact gun from harbor freight. Works great, except that it sheared one of the studs off of my project kics spacer. They're old and the studs are due to be replaced anyways, we'll get to that another day.
Step 3: Using dykes or pliers, remove the cotter pin that holds this brass cover thing, over the axle nut.
Step 4: Using a 36mm socket, remove the axle nut. (Again, having an impact gun is very useful here)
Also, your axle nut may be a different size. I run z32 rear uprights and hubs, iirc stock 240 ones are only 27mm nut?
Step 5: Get under the car and using 12mm wrenches or socket (your preference), remove the hardware holding the axle to the diff stub shafts. then remove axles from car. (Having a small prybar or large flathead screwdriver comes in handy here, to wedge the inner axle flange out of the diff stub shafts.
Step 6: Sort out your new shit. New axles are top and bottom, s13 axles are in the middle
Here is where i ran into the only real problem. I've already discussed it with Maverick and its been resolved from their end, but they send out two sets of hardware with each kit; countersunk allen head screws to bolt the adapter flanges to the diff, and cap socket allen head screws to bolt the new axles to the adapter flanges.
Countersunk ones take a 5mm allen wrench, and the other ones are 8mm. I used allen sockets.
Here is where the problem pops up. The countersunk screws are too short! They're 20mm long, and need to be at least 5-10 mm longer! I went to assemble and found that they barely even fit all the way through, not even enough to put the nut on.
So i took a trip to my local Fastenal store, and picked up these guys. FYI, the ones you want are the M8 1.25 x 30, not the x25. x25 will work, but you don't get full nut engagement, which is no good.
Once again, i've already let Maverick know about this issue, and it should be resolved before any more of their kits get mailed out.
(x25 on top. still not long enough. x30 on bottom. Full nut engagement, PROPER)
Step 7: Bolt dem shits up. I used the German torquing guide, and the appropriate torque value is Gudenteit. It may help if you set the ebrake while tightening these fasteners.
Step 7.5: The new Z/G axles have this thin metal dust shield on them, I didn't know if it would interfere with my uprights, so i chose to delete them. Some quick knocks with a hammer and chisel (aka screwdriver) and they came right off.
Step 8: Install axles. I used a wire brush to clean up the splines on the outer end of the axles, and then lightly coated the splines with antisieze. Then you're ready to stuff em in place. This proved a bit tricky. Since the adapter flange adds a bit of width to this axle setup, i ran into trouble getting the drivers side axle all the way into place. The splines on the upright slid into place nicely, but the axle was a bit too long to force into place on the diff end. Solution? If you unbolt the ruca and traction arm from your upright, you will now have enough room to get everything into place.
A bit hard to tell, but ruca is also unbolted and now i have enough room. I had to lengthen the RUCA on this side to even be able to bolt it back together, so now my camber is off on this side. My car will be going for an alignment before it sees the road again, but it is wise to have your alignment checked any time you've been removing or dicking with arms.
I did not have any issue with the passengers side install. It went together without having to unbolt any additional arms.
When bolting the axles to the adapter spacers, i couldn't fit the head of my ratchet into place without it hitting the axle, so i used an extension. I used an 8", but a 6" or 4" should work fine. Again, setting the ebrake may help you while tightening these fasteners.
Step 9: Finishing up. Now that both axles are in place, and all fasteners are tight on the adapters, you probably think you're done, right???
WRONG.
You've still got more shit to torque.
Using the 36mm socket, you must now torque the axle nut. (setting the ebrake here is a MUST)
I run z32 uprights and hubs, the torque value ive seen listed as 152-203 ft-lb and other places as 159-224 ft/lbs. I went in the middle, with 180 ft/lbs.
Then you can re-install the copper cover thing over the nut, and the cotter pin. Some people insist on new cotter pins every time, I have no problem re-using them as long as theyre in good condition.
Now you can put your wheels back on, don't forget to torque those as well! And then take the car back off the jackstands.
Step 10: Go do burnouts and such.
Tools used:
- Impact gun or long breaker bar
- 1/2" drive tq wrench
- 36mm 1/2" drive socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive allen sockets (5mm and 8mm)
- 3/8" drive extension (i used 8", 6" or 4" should work fine)
- 12mm wrenches (you need two)
- 12mm socket 3/8" drive (if you don't have two 12mm wrenches)
- Prybar (12" should be fine, 18" would be ok too)
- Side cutters (dykes or pliers for removing cotter pin)
- Jack stands (2)
- Floor jack
- whatever size socket for your lugnuts
- Antiseize (or loctite blue, do NOT use loctite red)
- Hammer (for removing dust shields from new axles)
- whatever tools you use for removing your exhaust
- kroil or pb blaster (wd40 is ok too)
- metal toothbrush or wire brush for cleaning
- simple green or brakekleen for cleaning
Sunday, April 20, 2014
This is why we can't have nice things.
Adams Motorsports Park is always fun on drift night. Every thursday, from roughly 6-9pm, you can get your skid on for the stupid low price of $20 an hour. The crowd in the pit area is usually pretty mellow, and primarily filled with drivers, and people with a clue. The stands are usually filled with everything else. I've been attending drift night here for more than a few years and always leave with a smile on my face and a car covered in dirt and rubber. On the exit of the main sweeper, they have old discarded tires stacked in case you go too HAM slide off. Or, if you're like me, and dirt drop that corner, you can use the back corner of the car and punt that wall all over the place. No real dents, just plenty of rubber smeared all over the place.
Such is life.
Fortunately, a little wd40 and some elbow grease takes rubber off pretty well. My paint is decent for a 21 year old car, so i don't cry if it gets another nick or scratch. Back for more next week!
Fortunately, a little wd40 and some elbow grease takes rubber off pretty well. My paint is decent for a 21 year old car, so i don't cry if it gets another nick or scratch. Back for more next week!
HAPPY ZOMBIE JESUS DAY!!!! or Continually playing catch up with Nakagawa Shuichi
If any of you know me personally, you'll know how bad i am about getting round to shit. Mostly i can blame this on a hectic work schedule (40hrs is a SLOW week for me, 50-60 is normal), and the fact that i live in two different places, but even beyond that, its bad. Thankfully (bless you zombie jesus!!!) we had good friday off. That means 3-day weekend!!! Finally enough time for me to catch up on my snoozin, clean up my room(s), and still have enough time and energy to dig in to some projects. I recently acquired another set of panasports g7 c5c2, so now i finally have a complete set!!! Some mixing and matching of lips and barrels needed to take place to optimize sizing, but for now it's ok.
Last night i finally dug in and started the process to mount the Spirit Rei Kamikaze lip and side skirt add-ons that Alex at Wheelflip had ordered for me, through their U.S. distibution partner, Mastermind N.A. (conveniently located literally next door to Wheelflip). They arrived a few months ago and have been collecting dust in my garage, waiting for a weekend like this when i would have enough time to finish the project.
These are the same parts as seen on the Review 180sx owned by Shuichi Nakagawa, in its last version/form prior to going full Rocket Bunny. Personally i think the Review car pulled it off better, but i like my version as well.
While as far as i know, this is the first set introduced to North America, i would not be surprised to see more sets pop up in the years to come, due to the solid quality and universal design of the product. The only disappointment i had is that about a month after i had placed my order, they released carbon fiber versions!!! Oh well, i'll survive.
Essentially, this car is now too low to be streetable. PERFECT FOR STREETING!!!!
I really love how far it extends beyond the existing kouki aero, and while i'm sure it will be annoying as fuck to scrape over every pebble and penny on the road, i wouldn't have it any other way.
Oh and for those of you wondering, this is the same corner, after having all the tire marks cleaned off.
Since i had a 3 day weekend, i decided it would be wise to ship the car to south america just to take some instagram photos. Hopefully i can make it back in time for work tomorrow!!!
Essentially, this car is now too low to be streetable. PERFECT FOR STREETING!!!!
Oh and for those of you wondering, this is the same corner, after having all the tire marks cleaned off.
Since i had a 3 day weekend, i decided it would be wise to ship the car to south america just to take some instagram photos. Hopefully i can make it back in time for work tomorrow!!!
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